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Tuesday, July 7, 2015

The First Wives of Beer

Women back brewery in Bossier City

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The last decade has brought a renewed interest in brewing beer, and the number of local breweries opening up each year has skyrocketed. That means women as brewers is also on the rise. Flying Heart Brewing in Bossier City is a new operation founded by three couples who are close friends, and the women have played a major role in turning that dream into a reality. 

Although women brewmasters might seem like a new trend, women brewing beer actually goes back at least 4,000 years. In fact, in Ancient Egypt, brewing beer was done almost entirely by women. According to the National Women’s History Museum, the ancient Sumerians valued the beverage so much, they had a goddess of beer named Ninkasi. In the early American colonies, women crafted beer using corn, pumpkins and artichokes among other things. Beer was such a part of women’s lives that there were special brews such as “bride-ale” and “groaning beer,” which was given to mothers and their midwives during and after labor.
During the eighteenth century, women still played a significant part in beer history, crafting it both as tavern keepers and in the home. While credit is often given to Thomas Jefferson for being a founding home brewer, it was actually his wife, Martha, who did most of the brewing. It wasn’t until the nation shifted from an agricultural-based economy to an industrial-based economy that beer became more commercialized and dominated by men. Sadly, production of most of the diverse regional beers ceased and their methods, and recipes are now lost.
Even with modern conveniences, it would be hard to imagine colonial women working any harder than the women of the Flying Heart Brewing, who juggle what they call “real jobs” with their brewery duties and family demands. Jennifer Maxwell handles the brewery’s marketing, venue management and accounting around her day job as vice president of mortgage lending at Home Federal Bank. Leah Hart is the brewery’s outside sales and bar manager when she’s not handling her duties as senior master sergeant in the Air Force. Elizabeth Pattillo is also an outside sales assistant and a brewer’s assistant, as well as being a personal trainer.
Jennifer, Leah and Elizabeth, along with their husbands Jason LeBleu, Ben Hart and Ben Pattillo, respectively, started the business together because as Leah put it, “We love beer. We need more craft beer in the South. So we made some.”
Elizabeth said, “Flying Heart Brewing really got started when Leah left to serve our country on deployment. She tasked Jason and Ben P. to keep Ben out of trouble, so naturally we decided making beer was the best way to fulfill our obligation. We brewed a clone of Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout, and we were hooked.”
The group came up with the name Flying Heart as a tribute to Ben Hart’s family brand from his home in Washington State, one of the nation’s premier craft-brewing regions. Flying Heart Brewing has six labels that vary in style from a smooth black ale that boasts a moderate hop content to a bourbon barrel variety of dark ale. There are also several crisp, lighter ales, each with its own distinct character. 
The Flying Heart women believe there are differences to how women and men approach beer. “I believe [women] have a different palate,” Jennifer said. “While women are overall more hesitant to dive into craft beer, after they do, they really want to explore the different styles available.”
“Beer has not been a ladies’ drink until recently in my opinion,” added Elizabeth. “However, the women who do know beer are far more adept at describing why they enjoy a brew. They are able to pick up on the subtle notes of flavor, where most men miss the nuances.”
The Flying Heart women seem to know their stuff about the brewing process. “Most people do not know the science behind brewing,” Elizabeth said. “Each process requires consistency, and if one piece of the puzzle is missing, you can create an entirely different brew.”
Jennifer agreed. She said, “The brew process is very complex.  Different ingredient additions at different times throughout the process help to build the rich complex tastes and body of the beer. The other thing is dark beer does not have to be bitter. The bitterness comes from hops additions. I liken it to adding too much spice. The majority of the dark beers around are bitter. We choose not to have the severe hop additions therefore our dark beers have a very smooth, rich finish.”
Leah pointed out that likewise, “Not all stout beers are necessarily stout or heavy. Ours are considerably light.”
Even though Jennifer has a bachelor’s of science degree in medical technology, “with too many hours of organic chemistry and microbiology under my belt,” she said, “I will punt science back to the guys every time. Jason and Ben Hart have a [bachelor of science] in biology, and Ben Pattillo has a BS in engineering. It is nice when Jason is discussing yeast that I can remember just enough to not be totally in the dark.”  
Elizabeth, however, enjoys talking about how science is used in the brewing process. “There are multiple facets of science, but the short answer is water, barley, hops and yeast. Consistent water quality ensures consistent flavor. Barley, or the grain base, decides the type of beer. Hops add flavor, head retention and aid in shelf life. Yeast eats the sugars present in the beer during fermentation, which creates the alcohol.”
Even though these are three knowledgeable and talented women, they were quick to acknowledge the men in their lives and the fact that Flying Heart is a venture that depends on all three of the couples as partners and friends to be successful. 
“Each of our husbands [are] individually talented,” Elizabeth said. “But there is something dynamic about the fusion of their personalities and skills. Their combined efforts makes amazing things happen. Their dedication and intelligence still astounds me.”
When asked about the men’s role, Leah said, “They are the role! They are amazing. These men made this happen with the women as well. I went away to Greenland and came back to an idea turned into reality. The men made that initially happen. The women are helping sustain that reality now, and it’s an amazing ride.”
That amazing ride has also been a lesson in life. “Patience comes directly to mind,” Leah said. “It’s critical. My husband owns and operates one of the biggest dental labs in Shreveport. He now partly owns and operates a brewery. I miss him sometimes. I want him home all the time. We are technically still newlyweds. But I understand that what he is doing, what the other men are doing, is for the betterment of our community and our family. Patience is definitely being learned here.”
Elizabeth and Leah shared some of what they’ve learned for other women who want to start their own business. “Do not be easily discouraged,” Elizabeth said. “Do not be afraid to put yourself out there. It is a sad reality, which is slowly changing, but it is a man’s world. You are going to hit road bumps, so take them in stride. Learn from each decision and remember to breathe.”
And Leah’s words for women?  “Go for it, girls!”
Ladies definitely seem to be getting more into beer. “Our recently released Clementine Shandy has been a big hit with women,” Jennifer said. “It’s a fruity summer ale, a little sweet but very refreshing. I find that ladies who don’t like beer tend to love it.”  
Elizabeth said a girls’ night out tasting is something fun and different. “Come grab a growler of each of our brews, and we will even give you flight sheets so you know what questions you need to ask and what you should be looking for in each brew. You can also grab a growler to go and have a game night.”
While beer may be a wonderful spirit, beer with the right foods can be other-worldly.  Leah likes crawfish with Flying Heart’s Amber, while Jennifer has a sweet tooth. “Our Milk Maid Stout is more of a dessert beer,” she said. “I have used it in chocolate cupcakes, and it is amazing.”
One of the most special things about the entire Fly Heart Brewing venture has been the memories in the making. “Jason and I married in February of this year in New Orleans,” Jennifer said. “And of course the entire crew was down there to celebrate. Jason brewed a special wedding ale for our adult guests and a root beer for our younger guests as take home gifts. We had special labels printed and packaged each one in its very own clear bag. Unfortunately, the day after the wedding, guests reported that their bottles began to explode. We had reports of bottle caps exploding in hotel bathrooms and the back of autos on their way home. It was the wedding parting gift that kept on giving.”  
Leah’s special memory is, “My husband Ben just adored his grandfather Wesley. The Flying Heart cattle brand is the heart that you see on all of our art and décor. This tribute to his grandfather’s memory is moving to me.”
Anyone 21 years and older can come be a part of the memory-making fun that is Flying Heart Brewing. “The tasting room is just a really great place to hang out,” Jennifer said. “I feel like the southern mom during holidays when all the family is coming in. We have people of all ages and backgrounds that come in and enjoy the brews, atmosphere and food trucks. As the sun sets behind the magnolia tree, and I am able to stop to look around, I love watching all our patrons laugh and make new friends, all over a good brew. It doesn’t get more Southern than that.”
Flying Heart Brewing is open 4 to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Visitors can tour the tasting room at 3:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and learn more about the craft beer process, as well as the history of its location at Ole Central Station Fire House No. 6, at 700 Barksdale Blvd. The cost is $5 and includes a pint or a flight at the end of the tour. For more information on tours or events, go to flyingheartbrewing.com/.

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